honey Archives - Lulu's Bees https://lulusbees.com/tag/honey/ Row Honey by Lulu's Bees - Michigan Thu, 25 Oct 2018 12:06:38 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://lulusbees.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/cropped-lulus-bees-final-logo-footer-1-32x32.png honey Archives - Lulu's Bees https://lulusbees.com/tag/honey/ 32 32 Goldenrod Honey: From Weed to Wonderful https://lulusbees.com/goldenrod-honey-from-weed-to-wonderful/ https://lulusbees.com/goldenrod-honey-from-weed-to-wonderful/#respond Mon, 21 May 2018 13:38:46 +0000 http://lulusbees.com/?p=3689 From July through November across the U.S., yellow spikes of flowers on tall, sharp-leafed stems fill ditches and vacant lots. Most people consider Goldenrod a weed to be mowed or eradicated in some chemical fashion. At Lulu’s Bees Farm, we allow areas of these to grow and mature with a purpose. Tall Goldenrod is a fall […]

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From July through November across the U.S., yellow spikes of flowers on tall, sharp-leafed stems fill ditches and vacant lots. Most people consider Goldenrod a weed to be mowed or eradicated in some chemical fashion. At Lulu’s Bees Farm, we allow areas of these to grow and mature with a purpose. Tall Goldenrod is a fall favorite of the honeybee. Although it is most likely the bees are foraging on a variety of flowers, it is natural to assume the most prevalent flower at any given time is the strongest influence in the honey. Since Goldenrod is available in significant quantities at this time of year, this nectar is the primary component of the honey being produced now.

 

Nectar sourced from Goldenrod produces a distinct honey. Fellow beekeepers warned to not be alarmed when Goldenrod is in bloom. Even when opening the hive and before harvesting honey, the smell is markedly different. Without this advance notice, I would have been concerned something was wrong. Some written descriptions categorize this as a spicy smell. Others suggest a faint licorice aroma. The leaves of Goldenrod (actually a member of the herb family) do smell a bit like licorice when crushed so perhaps that is a nice way to characterize it. Honestly my best descriptor for the smell of Goldenrod honey is “cheesy”.

Goldenrod-based honey is a rich amber color, much darker than honey harvested after the bees have foraged on spring flowers such as clover. It is almost as dark as maple syrup. There is a slightly spicy taste and, thankfully, nothing cheesy. The honey is truly delicious.

Goldenrod honey does tend to crystallize faster than clover honey or other wildflower honey. For example, last year the Goldenrod honey crystallized in a matter of weeks while the clover honey stayed liquid for months. Crystallization does not change the flavor or ruin the honey. If liquid honey is desired, it can be gently warmed by placing the container of honey in a bowl of hot water until it liquefies. Never microwave honey. This destroys the nutritional value of the honey and risks scorching. Crystallized honey may also be used “as is”. I find that a slightly crystallized honey is easier to spread on toast anyway. If using in hot tea, the crystallization is not a factor, simply spoon and stir.

 

Some customers report using local honey to decrease their sensitivity to the pollens that cause seasonal allergies. Taking 1-3 teaspoons of honey per day is said to decrease allergy symptoms. Obviously we cannot claim that our honey whether from Goldenrod or other flowers is a treatment for allergies but there is anecdotal support. Various internet sites also report that regular consumption of local honey is beneficial for seasonal allergy sufferers. As Goldenrod is one of the plants in bloom during fall hay fever season, this honey is in such demand that we quickly sold out.

 

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Are you a natural beekeeper? https://lulusbees.com/are-you-a-natural-beekeeper/ https://lulusbees.com/are-you-a-natural-beekeeper/#respond Wed, 21 Feb 2018 13:36:46 +0000 http://lulusbees.com/?p=3690 Wow. I hate that question. When I hear it I want to snap, “No. I’m not natural. I’m a fake. It’s all smoke and mirrors.” But I’m too polite (well, usually) to go there. You see, I don’t know what you mean by “natural beekeeper.” I don’t know your definition. I don’t even know what […]

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Wow. I hate that question. When I hear it I want to snap, “No. I’m not natural. I’m a fake. It’s all smoke and mirrors.” But I’m too polite (well, usually) to go there.

You see, I don’t know what you mean by “natural beekeeper.” I don’t know your definition. I don’t even know what you call an unnatural one.

The way I see it, all beekeepers fall on a bell curve. The x-axis measures “naturalness” from zero to infinity. The y-axis measures the number of beekeepers. Like anything else that falls on a bell curve, you will have a very small number of beekeepers at each end of the curve (the very unnatural and the very natural) while most are going to fall somewhere in the middle.

The real problem is in the definition. On this website, I’ve deliberately avoided calling my style of beekeeping natural, although it is much closer to natural than unnatural. If I call what I do natural, it will just elicit argument from those whose definition is different from my own. Does that follow?

It’s similar to politics. On some issues you could call me left (liberal) and on other issues you could call me right (conservative). So I don’t bother with a label because it just confuses people. Labels come with a host of expectations which are different depending on who’s listening.

So what is a natural beekeeper? As Phillip over at Mudsongs recently pointed out, the phrase “natural beekeeper” is an oxymoron. Bees don’t naturally live under the care of humans; they would rather do it their own way. So if you are keeping bees in a manmade structure and you try to prevent them from leaving (swarming), you’ve created an unnatural situation—one that does not exist in nature.

Some aspects of beekeeping engender more argument than others. For example, most beekeepers agree that using chemical pesticides precludes one from being natural. But what about organic acids or essential oils for mite control? Some say it is okay, some say it is not.

Where else might you draw the line? Well, like I said, it depends on who you talk to, but here are a few ideas. The following things are definitely unnatural, at least from the bees’ perspective:

  • Hive inspections
  • Re-queening
  • Any type of swarm prevention
  • Artificial feed, including sugar and pollen substitutes
  • Making the bees build up when the want to build down or vice versa (brood nest management)
  • Artificial insemination
  • Preformed foundation
  • Drone management
  • Plastic parts in the hive
  • Queen marking or clipping
  • Harvesting honey, pollen, propolis, or wax

My point is that naturalness is a relative thing. And if you are keeping bees—managing bees—you have already crossed the line into unnaturalness. If you are a beginner, I think it is important to find your own place on the continuum. Don’t let people intimidate you into a definition of naturalness that doesn’t fit with your own goals, beliefs, experience, or financial means.

I would argue that even those beekeepers on the extreme natural end of the curve—those that consider themselves super natural beekeepers—aren’t really. Natural beekeeping is something you can aspire to, strive for, but you’ll never actually achieve. If you asked the bees their opinion of human interlopers, I’m sure it wouldn’t be good—no matter what techniques they ascribe to.

 

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Why all your honey bee colonies are not the same https://lulusbees.com/why-all-your-honey-bee-colonies-are-not-the-same/ https://lulusbees.com/why-all-your-honey-bee-colonies-are-not-the-same/#respond Thu, 26 Oct 2017 13:35:46 +0000 http://lulusbees.com/?p=3688 We talk about the benefits of genetic diversity. We try to avoid inbreeding. Bee breeders import semen to enhance the gene pool. Yet, when a beekeeper has a colony that acts differently from his others, panic sets in. Oh dear. One colony eats more, stays out later, is not as big, eats less, stores no […]

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We talk about the benefits of genetic diversity. We try to avoid inbreeding. Bee breeders import semen to enhance the gene pool. Yet, when a beekeeper has a colony that acts differently from his others, panic sets in. Oh dear. One colony eats more, stays out later, is not as big, eats less, stores no pollen, stores too much pollen, is nastier, smarter, or gentler than the rest. What should you do?

The irony, of course, is that you can’t have it both ways. If you achieve genetic diversity in your apiary, your colonies are not the same. That’s the whole point. Remember, diversity and sameness are polar opposites.

Recognizing normal when colonies are not the same

When someone is in a twist because one colony is different from another, they nearly always decide that the bigger, gentler colonies are the normal ones and the others are somehow off. But that conclusion is merely a reflection of our own desires. I never hear anyone claim that the smaller or feistier colony is the normal one, but how do they know? It’s odd when you think about it.

We don’t apply this same standard to our children. We accept difference as good. Perhaps one child is good at sports and one is good at math. Or one is tall and one is short. We accept both.

I know, I know. I’m anthropomorphizing and some people hate that. But seriously, why do we think every colony should be a carbon copy of every other?

Genetically identical populations never do well. In fact, as a gene pool shrinks—regardless of the species—individuals become more and more alike. And while that population may have strengths, it also has weaknesses. When a population becomes too homogeneous, extinction is usually not far behind. Sameness means there are few variations to fall back on when something goes awry.

 

Colony difference can be good

Just yesterday I received an email from a beekeeper with four colonies. She said they were all doing great, packing in lots of honey and pollen, and all had low mite counts. But one wasn’t as big as the other three and she was obsessing over it. She was feeding it more, giving it extra frames of brood, and offering pollen supplements, but she couldn’t make it bigger.

But think. Why does it have to be the same size? If it is healthy, thriving, and doing the things bee colonies ought to do, what difference does it make? Many times those smaller colonies do better over a long winter than the gigantic ones that have many more mouths to feed.

Understand that I when I say “different,” I don’t mean failing. I don’t mean sick. I’m referring to colonies that are healthy but—for whatever reason—are just not the same as the others. Most of us don’t have crystal balls that can predict which colonies will overwinter and which will not. Assuming they are all healthy as we dive into winter, it is impossible to know which will thrive and which will fail.

Size is not the same as resilience

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve decided that certain smaller colonies wouldn’t make it, while I assumed the larger, more active colonies would. I also can’t tell you how many times I’ve been wrong. So now I’m happy when I have a mix. With a diversity of genetics, a variety of strengths and weaknesses, I have the best chance of having plenty of bees when springtime rolls around.

Oftentimes, all the colonies make it, but sometimes a few don’t. Knowing which is which is not nearly as clear as you might think and may come as a complete surprise. So relax and be grateful that not all your colonies are alike.

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